How to Wash Pillows by Fill Type (and Which Ones You Shouldn’t)
Some pillows go straight into the washing machine. Others fall apart if you try. The fill decides, and getting it wrong is how a pillow turns lumpy, flat or musty overnight.
Always start with the care tag, because it reflects how that specific pillow was made. This guide explains the general rules for each common fill so you understand why the tag says what it says, and what to do when the tag is missing.
Read the care tag first
Pillow care tags tell you three things you need: whether the pillow is washable, what water temperature to use, and how to dry it. If the tag says “spot clean only” or “do not wash,” believe it. Shredded foam pillows in particular vary: some are designed to be washed whole, and many aren’t.
If the tag is gone, identify the fill (squeeze it, open the zipper if there is one) and follow the general guidance below on the cautious side.
Washing by fill type at a glance
| Fill | Machine wash? | Drying | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polyester fiberfill | Usually yes | Low to medium heat, with dryer balls | Clumping if not fully dried |
| Down / feather | Often yes, gently | Low heat, long cycle, with dryer balls | Damp clumps that smell if not dried through |
| Down alternative | Usually yes | Low heat, with dryer balls | Same as polyester |
| Solid memory foam | No | Air dry only | Water can tear foam and won’t dry out of the core easily |
| Solid latex | No | Air dry out of direct sun | Latex can break down with agitation, heat and sunlight |
| Shredded foam / shredded latex | Depends on the tag | Often air dry or low/no heat | Clumping; some must be emptied first |
| Buckwheat hulls | Shell only | Air dry shell; hulls never get wet | Wet hulls can turn musty |
| Wool | Depends on the tag | Usually air dry | Felting and shrinking with heat and agitation |
| Kapok | Check the tag; often cover only | Air dry | Fill can mat if soaked |
Polyester and down-alternative pillows
- Wash two at a time to balance the machine. A front-loader or top-loader without a center agitator is gentler.
- Use a small amount of mild detergent and the temperature on the tag. Too much soap is hard to rinse out of dense fill.
- Add an extra rinse and a second spin to pull out more water.
- Dry on low to medium heat with dryer balls, pausing occasionally to fluff and redistribute the fill.
- Check the center. If any part feels cool or damp, keep drying. A pillow that seems dry on the outside can still be wet inside.
Wool dryer balls or clean tennis balls in a sock help break up clumps while the pillow dries.
Down and feather pillows
Down cleans well in water, but it dries slowly and clumps easily. Patience is the whole technique.
- Use a gentle cycle and a mild detergent; some people prefer a detergent made for down.
- Skip fabric softener, which can coat clusters and reduce loft.
- Rinse and spin twice.
- Dry on low heat for a long time, with dryer balls, fluffing every so often. It can take multiple cycles.
- Don’t put a down pillow back on the bed until it’s completely dry; trapped moisture leads to odor.
Check the shell for holes before washing. A small tear can become a dryer full of feathers.
Memory foam and latex pillows
Solid foam and latex pillows shouldn’t go in a washing machine or dryer. Agitation can tear them, heat can damage them, and soaking a solid core leaves water deep inside that’s slow to evaporate.
How to clean them
- Remove and wash the cover according to its own tag.
- Vacuum the core with an upholstery attachment.
- Spot clean with a cloth dampened in water and a little mild detergent. Blot, don’t scrub, and don’t soak.
- Rinse by blotting with a clean damp cloth.
- Air dry completely in a ventilated room, out of direct sun for latex, before putting the cover back on.
For odors, airing the core out and sprinkling baking soda, then vacuuming it off after a few hours, is a common gentle approach.
Shredded foam and adjustable-fill pillows
These vary more than any other type. Some brands say to wash the whole pillow on gentle and tumble dry low; others say to remove the fill and wash only the cover. A mesh inner liner is a clue that the design anticipates removing the fill. If you do remove it, work over a large bin or inside a big bag, because shredded foam scatters everywhere.
Buckwheat pillows
- Empty the hulls into a large bowl or bag.
- Wash the shell according to its tag.
- Refresh the hulls by spreading them on a tray in a dry, airy spot or in indirect sunlight, then sifting out dust and broken pieces with a colander.
- Top up with new hulls if the pillow has lost volume over time.
Don’t wash the hulls themselves. Wet hulls take a long time to dry and can turn musty.
Spot-treating stains on any pillow
Yellowing and spots on pillows usually come from sweat, skin oils and drool soaking through the pillowcase. You can lighten stains on most pillow shells before a full wash, or on foam covers when the core can’t be washed:
- Test first on a hidden area of the shell to check for color change.
- Apply a small amount of mild detergent mixed with water, or an enzyme-based stain remover suitable for the fabric.
- Blot from the outside in with a clean cloth so the stain doesn’t spread.
- Rinse by blotting with a cloth dampened in clean water.
- Dry thoroughly before the next wash or before putting a cover back on.
Avoid chlorine bleach unless the care tag allows it; it can weaken some fabrics and yellow certain synthetics. Some old stains won’t fully lift, and a yellowed but clean, supportive pillow is still perfectly usable under a protector.
How often to wash pillows (and how to wash them less)
Pillowcases should be washed often, along with your sheets. Pillows themselves need it much less frequently, especially if you use a protector. Many care guides suggest washing washable pillows a few times a year; follow the maker’s recommendation if they give one.
- Use a zippered pillow protector under the pillowcase and wash it every few weeks.
- Fluff pillows daily to keep fill even.
- Air pillows out in a ventilated room periodically.
- Wash after illness, a spill or heavy sweating rather than on a strict schedule.
- Replace a pillow that stays lumpy, smells after washing, or fails the fold test for its fill type.
Common mistakes
- Putting the pillow back damp. The most common cause of musty smells.
- Washing solid foam in the machine. It can crumble or tear.
- Using high heat to speed things up. It can damage shells, foam and some fills.
- Overloading the washer. Pillows need room to move and rinse.
- Too much detergent. Residue in the fill attracts dirt and can irritate skin.
FAQ
Can I put a memory foam pillow in the washing machine?
Generally no. Wash the removable cover, then vacuum and spot clean the foam core and let it air dry completely.
How do I stop my pillow from clumping after washing?
Dry it fully on low heat with dryer balls and fluff it by hand between cycles. Clumping usually means fill is still damp inside.
How do I know when a washed pillow is fully dry?
Squeeze the center and check for any cool or damp spots, and make sure there’s no musty smell. If unsure, run another low-heat cycle or keep air drying.
Can I wash buckwheat hulls?
It’s best not to. Empty the hulls, wash the shell, and refresh the hulls by airing and sifting them.
The bottom line
Fiber, down and down-alternative pillows can usually be washed and dried with patience and low heat. Solid foam and latex need their covers washed and their cores spot cleaned. Buckwheat comes apart for cleaning. In every case, the drying step matters most, and a pillow protector means you’ll do all of this a lot less often.